Blog

Electrical Safety Tips for Children

Electrical Safety Tips for Children

Electrical safety tips

We teach our children how to be safe in many areas of life. Don’t talk to strangers. Look both ways before you cross the street. Don’t touch the stove when it’s hot. However, we often leave out a very important aspect of outdoor safety; steering clear of electrical hazards. Here are some great tips regarding electricity and keeping your children safe:

Stay clear of electrical wires and outlets

All electrical wires should be kept out of reach and sight of children and teaching them the difference between open and closed outlets is essential. A good indicator to help them learn to avoid is the volt sign that is usually located on the outlet.

Teach your children the danger signs

Teaching them the more important or dangerous signs is a very good idea so they are on alert for these at all terms. Not only will your child be safer but if they’re with other children they can let them know as well.

Prohibit climbing transmission towers or fences near substations

Making sure your child isn’t going to play around any potentially hazardous areas such as these is extremely important. Providing a tree or public playground that they can use instead is advisable.

Do not throw anything at utility poles or outdoor wiring

During bad weather, throwing objects near utility poles can sometimes cause lightning or an electrical shock. Not only this but if your child happens to fly a kite at all, it could potentially create an electrical circuit between wires and your child so make sure they do this far away from hazardous areas.

Top

Electrical Glossary

Electrical Glossary

A

A-Line Lamp: An indoor lamp regularly used in residential homes.

Accent Lighting: Bright, specifically placed lighting used to accent certain parts of residential homes.

Alternating Current (AC): A current of electricity that changes direction according to frequency.

Alternator: A generator that producing a constant alternating electrical current.

Ambient Lighting: General lighting used in resident and commercial areas.

American Wire Gauge (AWG): A standard measurement system to rate the size of electrical wire.

Ampacity: Maximum amount of current that a conductor can carry continuously.

Ampere: An electrical current that is created when one ohm is applied to one volt.

Analog: The standard unit of measure assessing physical restrictions.

Arc Tube: A clear, glass tube made of quartz that houses an arc stream.

 

B

Ballast: A limited electrical current device that works to run fluorescent lighting.

Ballast Cycling: When fluorescent lighting cycles on and off to avoid overheating.

Battery: A unit that houses two or more cells that connect to create an electrical current.

Blower Doors: A device used to send a wind current though residential homes and make leaks around doors, windows and other areas become apparent.

Branch Circuit: Circuits that feed devices, appliances and other electrical needs in a residence.

Brownout: A decrease in available power when the generation of electricity cannot keep up with demand.

BTU (British Thermal Unit): Standard unit for measuring heat quantities.

 

C

Cable Lighting System: A hanging track wiring system of low voltage spot lighting.

Candlepower/Candela: Unit of measure for light intensity.

Capacitor: Electronic component that holds an electrical charge.

Cathode: An electrode that emits electrons out of a device.

Cell: The part of a battery that converts chemical energy into a working electrical current.

Circuit Breaker: A device designed to control electrical currents without ruining the wiring.

Circuit Extensions: An extension to a circuit that provides an additional power source.

Code Corrections: A citation issued to correct wiring that does not meet required safety regulations.

Colored Glass Filter: Color inserted directly into glass during the forming process, instead of coated after the glass has cooled.

Color Temperature: Range of measurement from warm colors to cool colors, used to measure the color appearance of a light source.

Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL): Small, tube shaped fluorescent lighting with a high color illumination.

Constant Wattage (CW) Ballast: Occurs when a primary and secondary coil is isolated in an HID ballast.

Continuous Load: The maximum electrical load current for a whoy is excepted to run a constant 3+ hours.

Contrast: The range of illumination from light and dark.

Controller: The regulator of electricity between the origin of power and the device it is running.

Cornice Lighting: Bar-shaped fixtures that cover ceiling lighting.

Cover Lighting: a ceiling mounted light used to distribute light across an area.

Current: The flow of electricity.

Cut-off Angle: the angle at which the light from a lamp is not visible.

 

D

Daylight Compensation: A dimming lighting system that dims at the presence of natural daylight.

Diffuse: Disillusion of light so that it’s softened around an area.

Dimmer: Used to vary the light distributed by a lamp.

Diode: Device used to allow electricity to flow in one direction.

Direct Current (DC): Power rating that allows the current to flow in one direction.

Downlight: Light mounted in a ceiling that is used to direct light downwards.

 

E

Efficacy: Term used to measure light produced vs. energy consumption.

Electroluminescent: A new technology used to provide long lamp life in which consumes very little energy.

Electric Resistance Heating: A heating system the creates heat by passing an electrical current through a conductor.

EMI (Electromagnetic Inference): Interference caused by an electronic component that hinders the operation of electrical equipment.

Emergency Lighting: Lighting that illuminates during a power outage or other emergency.

Energy: A unit of measure for mechanical work, measured in kilo-watt hours.

Energy Efficiency Ration (EER): A ratio comparing the rate at which an air conditioner cools to the total wattage of electrical input.

Energy-Saving Ballast: A efficiently performing magnetic ballast.

 

F

Fault: A hiccup in an electrical system causing a short circuit.

Filament: The wire within a light bulb that illuminates when electricity is ran through it.

Flexible Track Lighting System: A lighting system on a track that has the ability to be adjusted.

Fluorescent Lamps: Lights that produce light when electricity is passed through gas rather than a wire.

Foot-Candle: A unit of measurement used to measure the amount of light reaching an object.

Four-Way Switch: Three light switches all wired to control a single lighting system.

Frequency: Rate in which a current changes it’s direction.

 

G

Generator: Rotating copper wheel that generates electricity.

Glare: An effect caused by direct light entering the eye.

Grid: A network of wires used to distribute electricity.

Ground: Used to direct electricity to a safe location.

 

H

Halogen Lamp: A bulb that contains halogen gases to slow the evaporation of the filament.

Hard Wired: A permanent connection to an electrical source.

Hertz: Measurement of frequency.

HID Lamp: High Intensity lamps with an extensive lifespan.

High Bay: Ceiling lighting where the ceiling exceeds a height of 20 feet.

High Output (HO): A lighting system designed to function with higher currents to put out more light.

High-Tech Troubleshooting: A testing system to identify and wiring system issues or failures.

Horsepower: A unit of power that is equivalent to 746 watts.

Hot Restart/Hot Restrike: The action of a HID light source automatically restarting following a loss in power.

 

I

Illuminance (Light Level): The amount of light in a particular room or on an object or surface.

Impulse: A temporary electrical current surge.

Incandescent Light Bulbs: Light bulbs specially made to run electricity through a thin layer.

Infared Cameras: Cameras that pick up on any heat source.

Infared Radiation: An invisible radiation that has extended wavelengths.

Instant Start: Fluorescent lamps that function without requiring preheating.

Insulation: Materials used to resist electrical currents.

Inverter: A device that converts an direct electrical current into an alternative one.

Ion: A molecule or atom that is either positively or negatively charged.

J

Joule: Unit of measure for potential electrical current equal to 1,000 volts.

 

K

Kilovolt (kV): A unit of electrical current equal to 1,000 volts.

Kilowatt (kW): Power delivered in a load.

Kilowatt-hour: Measurement comparison for a unit to energy to one kilowatt for one hour.

L

Layers: The layers of illumination created by multiple light sources.

LED: An energy-efficient light that has an extremely extensive lifespan.

Light Loss Factor (LLF): An allowance that lets lighting systems in less than ideal conditions.

Light Trespass/Spill Light: The lighting of an unintended area.

Life Cycle Cost: The overall cost of buy and operating a total system over the total lifespan.

Limit Switch: A switch that causes an alteration to an electrical current.

Liquid-Filled Transformer: A liquid that cools and insulates a submerged transformer.

Live Parts: Components of electrical wiring that are exposed and deemed dangerous.

Load: The power supplied by an electrical device.

Loadbreak: The successful avoidance of disengaging a load with damaging it’s components.

Load Center: The power center that distributes power to an entire structure.

Load Curve: Electronic demand vs. Time.

Load Factor: A unit of measure for an electrical system’s capacity and efficiency.

Load Switching: Taking one load and transferring it from one source to another.

Louver: A opaque screen created to minimize glare.

Low Voltage: A wiring system that provides electricity to a device under 100 volts.

Lumen: Unit of measure that indicates the amount of light emitted from a light source.

Luminaire: A light system or single fixture.

 

M

Mercury Vapor Lamp: A lamp in which light is produced from the radiation of mercury vapor.

Metal Enclosed/Metalclad: A metal casing that surrounds a device.

Metal Halide: A lamp in which light is produced by the radiation of metal halide.

Motors: The device that moves or runs a system.

 

N

National Electrical Code: The code of requirements for proper electrical practices and procedures.

Neodymium: A metal used to create a purple-hued glass for certain light bulbs, goggles, filters and lenses.

 

O

Occupancy Sensor: An motion sensor light switch system.

Ohm: Unit of measure to properly measure resistance.

Opaque: A material that does not allow light to pass through at all.

Outlet: A current that is borrowed to supply electricity to somewhere outside of the orginally intended power grid.

Overload: An excessive amount of stress on a particular circuit.

Overvoltage: A voltage that is above the recommend capacity.

 

P

PAR Lamp: An aluminium reflector lamp.

Pendant: A glare-deflecting shade for ceiling-mounted lamps.

Phase: An AC circuit classification.

Photocell: Device that senses light and controls the lighting system accordingly.

Power: The unit of measure for energy transferred.

Power Outlet: A device intended to distribute power temporarily to other equipment.

Preheat: The heating up of a fluorescent lamp before the use of high voltage.

Puncture: A discharge that temporarily disrupts a solid dielectric.

 

R

Radio Frequency Inference (RFI): The disruption of a radio frequency band by another frequency band nearby.

Rapid Start: A fluorescent lighting system that goes to high voltage quickly without warming up first.

Rated Life: Half the expected lifespan of a particular kind of lamp.

Reactive Power: The voltage and current taken up by reactive loads.

Real (Active) Power: The measurment in watts or kilowatts measuring the rate at which energy is transferred.

Receptacles: Power sources within a structure.

Reflector/Refractor: A light fixture’s part that redirects a light’s path.

Regulation: The ability a ballast has to uphold fluctuations in voltage.

Relay: A device used to turn a load on or off during electrical current changes.

Resistor: Any limitation on a current’s flow.

Retrofit: Upgrading a feature based on previous installations.

 

S

Sconce: Lighting fixtures that attached to the wall.

Semi-spectacular: Characteristics of a material that creates light reflection.

Service: Materials used to deliver electric energy from a utility into a wiring system.

Series Gap: Areas in the internal system in which voltage is suppose to appear.

Series/Multiple: Two coils wound together to create a series of operating systems.

Service Cable: Cables used to transfer conductors.

Spacing Criterion: The maximum spacing requirement for interior lighting systems for appropriate light.

Specular: A surface that is polished or mirror.

Starter: A device that is used to start a fluorescent lamp.

Stroboscopic Effect: An effect that is created when machinery is rotating, but appears to be standing still.

Switchboard: An assembly of panels that are mounted with protective devices.

Switches: A interruption to a circuit that controls the flow of electricity.

Symmetric: The natural flow of a electrical current.

Systems Capacity: The maximum allowance of electricity allowed for one system.

 

T

Tap: Connections made from an outside wiring system.

Tandem Wiring: A ballast shared by two or more luminaries for heightened efficiency.

Task Lighting: Lighting that is installed in particular areas where tasks are performed.

Three-Way Switch: A switch allowing two switches to control a single lighting system.

Track and Accent Lighting: Lighting used to highlight certain areas or walls in residential homes and businesses.

Transfer Switch: A device that can connect to different sources.

Transformer: A device that lets electromagnetic energy transfer from one circuit to another.

Transient: A amplitude that is overlaid onto normal voltage.

Translucent: Any material that allows light to pass directly through with a small amount of distortion.

Transparent: Any material that allows light to pass directly through with little or no distortion.

Troffer: A recessed light fixture that is built in the ceiling.

Turn Ratio: The turn count of a high voltage winding vs. low voltage winding.

 

U

UL (Underwriters Laboratories Inc.): A non-profit safety organization.

Uninterruptible Power Supply: A device that constantly puts out a current, even with interruption.

Uplight: Light that is directed at or about 90 degress.

UV Radiation: Invisible light rays

 

V

Vandal-resistant: Fixtures that resist breaking or tampering

Vapor-Tight Luminaire: A lighting fixture that is protected against water vapor and gas

VCP (Visual Comfort Probability): A system used to rate the output of direct glare.

Very High Output (VHO): A fluorescent lamp that operates at a high current and thus puts off more light.

Volt: An flow of electricity that carries one ampere.

Voltage Drop: A drop in voltage due to an electrical resistance or failure.

 

W

Wall Grazing: Light and shadow effects on a surface.

Wall Washing: A lighting method that produces a constant level of light to reduce surface texture.

Watt: A unit of electricity that is equal to one ampere.

Wiring: The system of wires that distributes electricity throughout the entirety of a building.

Whole-House Fan: A fan that runs ventilation for an entire building.

Top

Outdoor Outlets and Faucets

Outdoor Outlets & Faucets 101

Outdoor electrical outlets have now become a customary element in any house. Same applies for the outdoor faucet too. Certain things such as safety features are often neglected and not considered in standard outlets. These features do not arise in homeowner’s mind. So, if you wish to avert any disaster in your home, it is very important to be informed regarding dangers that can arise and also how ideal outdoor outlets and faucets can play an important role here. Moreover, you must know what sort of precautions you need to take to safeguard yourself from personal damage and home dent before any disaster strikes.

Outdoor Electrical Outlets—An Intro

The introduction of GFCI outlet or ground fault circuit interrupter is the only reason why outdoor outlets are secure. GFCI outlet splits the electric current whilst electricity seeps into ground (in most cases, electricity runs through you). Whenever while working around hot tubs, pools & puddles or in wet atmosphere outside, you might have often experienced mild electric shocks from ground but you never experience this while being served well at your neighborhood barbeque. And the only difference here is installation of GFCI outlet. Call the cavalry and get the work done quickly in case there is no GFCI unit installed for all outdoor electrical outlets.

Other Safety Precautions

Apart from ensuring whether GFCI units are installed in all the outdoor electrical outlets, you must also buy some good covers which protect the outlet units from water contact, even though power tools as well as appliances are plugged up. Also, you need to refrain from working outdoors with all the electrically powered instruments and equipments when the atmosphere is wet outside. By simply adhering to these advices you can drastically lower the chances of inflicting any electrical related damage.

Tips for Outdoor Faucet

Outdoor faucet may not cause much damage to you but can greatly damage your home. Rapid changes in the temperature causes the older faucets to freeze, thereby bursting the pipes which in turn can create havoc in the basement as well as in crawlspace. To prevent this damage, you need to install outdoor faucets that are frost proof. Faucets like these prevent your pipes from bursting during various fronts. Firstly, majority of such faucets have built in anti-siphon sill cock which avoids freezing. They get attached to the home’s plumbing well inside the structure, which helps in eliminating any chance that iced water would expand at any joints, where usually damages in pipe occurs.

Install Outdoor Electrical Outlets

Other Tips

The best way to safeguard your home is to install a frost proof faucet; however certain common sense assessment will assist you to prevent any major plumbing disaster. If there is a predication of hard frost in your area then unhook all the hoses before freezing strikes. Hoses stop the water from draining completely due to which water in pipes to do its damaging work. Fix and shut all the faucets tightly before cold wave sets in for the similar reason.

 

 

Contact an Expert

GFCI units & frost proof faucets work best only when installed properly. If they are incorrectly set, it will only provide you with a false sense of safety and it can be also bigger safety risk to individuals thinking that they and your house are protected. Call and speak to an expert certified electrician or plumber to ensure whether your GFCI’s as well as frost proof faucets are installed properly. These measures will not allow you to re-think twice concerning your protection or the integrity of your house.

Top

Voltage Dips and Electrical Surges

Voltage Dips and Electrical Surges

Voltage dips occur when many homes in an area draw power at the same time, such as high noon when everybody runs their air conditioning units on high. Flickering lights can be a sign that you’re experiencing a dip in voltage. although voltage dips aren’t too much to be concerned about, it can be an inconvenience, especially when it cuts off the power to your house.

Voltage Surges:

The most severe type of power-interference is called the voltage surge. These are able to start outside or inside the house, and this temporary surge in voltage can cause extreme damage to your personal electronic components such as entertainment centers, computers, television sets, training gear, stereo systems, mobile devices, and more. Call an electrician in Northern Kentucky if you’re experiencing more surges than usual.

The Solution: Surge Protection.

There are 2 different types of surge protectors currently available . The surge suppressor and the surge arrestor. As the name suggests, the surge arrestor is installed near or on the service panel to the house and offers protection from power surges up to 20,000 volts. This is equivalent to a strike of lightning.

Surge Suppressor:

Surge Suppressors were designed to protect common household appliances and electronic devices from excessive surges in voltage. These types of surges happen frequently in houses throughout the course of any given day. Many factors contribute to the this. The city switches power from one part of the grid to another to respond to supply and demand, and energy is constantly being diverted in the home from voltage left over from electric devices being turned on and off.

Over time, these power surges can have a negative effect on the wiring insulation. This causes the devices to break down or stop working altogether. To protect your expensive electronic gadgets and devices, plug them into a surge protector so they don’t get fried by a voltage surge.

Surge Arrestors:

To obtain the ultimate in protection, you can purchase a surge arrestor, which can protects against voltage surges to 20,000 volts. Surge arrestors kick in when suppressors leave off, and they were designed to protect the parts of the home such as the outlets, switches, breaker box, and more. High-quality suppressors protect to 330 volts, and arrestors begin at 600 volts and protect to 20,000.

Hiring a Professional Electrician in NKY:

Surge arrestors that were designed for the home should only be installed by a licensed professional. Today, there are a multitude of arrestor makes and models available. There are numerous factors to consider when determining the correct surge arrestor to install. Be sure to speak to a professional about choosing the correct model for your home.

Top

Electrical Upgrades: What You Need To Know

Electrical Upgrades: What You Need To Know

As we buy more and more powerful electrical equipment, it’s often the case that the electrical system in houses just isn’t capable of supplying enough power, particularly in homes built many years ago that were not designed with today’s needs in mind. An upgrade of the electrical system is often necessary. The more you inform yourself about these systems, the better you’ll be able to explain to your electrical contractor in Florence KY what you are aiming for in an upgrade.

By researching and carefully planning your upgrade, you can ensure that you not only have plenty of power for your current needs, but also for your future needs. If you are adding an outdoor circuit for a garage, wiring a new or remodelled kitchen, or even adding new circuits for an extension, you should take into account the peak usage of the system, and plan your electrical service accordingly. One of the worst things you can do is spend a small fortune on an upgrade that doesn’t upgrade enough, requiring another small fortune to upgrade down the line.

First, check that the mains coming into the fuse board are rated high enough. For example, a lot of older houses will have a 60 amp main circuit breaker. This needs to be uprated to 100 amp or more, which may require the mains line being uprated also. A 100 amp circuit breaker is enough for most homes, but if you have a lot of powerful equipment such as in a garage, you may require more headroom. It is necessary for a licensed electrician to carry out this work.

While tackling electrical wiring yourself is not a good idea, it is important to understand what will be needed to update your house. This prevents miscommunication when talking with your electrical contractor in Northern Kentucky.

If you plan on adding a whole new circuit, you should check your circuit breaker panel for free slots. For each 120 volt circuit you plan on adding you will need one free slot, and for every 240 volt circuit you will need two slots. Though some homeowners may be intimidated by this panel, you should have no problems finding the size of the circuit breakers and locating any empty slots. If there are no free slots on the circuit breaker panel, you will need a separate sub panel installed.

It must be stressed that any electrical work carried out should be done by a licensed, competent professional. Depending on local laws, any work carried out may require a review by an electrical engineer to ensure that the work has been completed in a safe manner, and conforms to local electrical and building codes. While it might seem like a shortcut to get an “under the table” job done, you could find yourself in a lot of bother for doing so. Without having the proper permits and relevant inspections carried out, you could have trouble when you come to sell your home. You could even have your home insurance invalidated because of a house fire due to incompetent workmanship.

Looking for an electrician in Florence Kentucky? Call us today at (859) 746-9440! Our electrical contractors serve all of Northern Kentucky!

 

Top

Motorized Window Treatments

Motorized Window Treatments

Window treatment systems that have motorized components come is a variety of configurations. The motors are usually installed in the headrails of the windows that have venetian blinds, shades or wooden blinds. Windows that have roller shades accommodate the motor in the tube section of the window. In window fitting that move horizontally for example, drapes, have to have tracks installed. The motors are concealed form one side and hang on the rail on the other side.

Planning

During the construction of a home, it is important to plan for the type of window system you would like to have. This makes it easier to plan the wiring required for the system. Some systems require high voltage wiring that can be be drawn from your home’s electrical sockets. However, some systems require low voltage wiring, which is safer but needs to planned in advance. Motorized window treatments work on alternating current from you electrical outlets or on direct current from a battery or a transformer. These batteries or transformers can be concealed in the walls as well during construction.
Alternating current is mostly required for windows treatments that are heavy as these require more powerful motors. A battery working on direct current is sufficient for windows treatments that are smaller or have light material.
In cases where it is not certain if a battery can take the load of the material used for the blind, it is always safer to use a high voltage motor. A battery or DC motor can be connected to the wiring set up for a high voltage motor. The reverse however is not possible.

The choice of motorized window blind as well as the source of current depend on the specific needs of the home. So it is important to decide what kind of motorized window treatments you want when you are looking at the blue prints of your new home.

The windows blinds with motorized systems are wired to be connected to a main electric panel. Before installing a motorized window treatments it is also important to take into consideration any rules and building codes that the local community might have with regard to safety and power consumption.

If you’re still looking for motorized window treatments, but don’t want to deal with the hassle of wiring, call our friends at Stamper’s Blinds Gallery! They have battery-powered, long-lasting motorized window treatments that are a fantastic alternative to traditional wired blinds.

Top

Protect Your Home With Home Security Lighting

Use Preventive Measures To Protect Your Home With Home Security Lighting

One of the most vital aspects of owning a home is to make sure that your home is as secure and safe as it can be. Although many of the simple things, such as securing your windows and locking your doors might seem like common sense, outdoor security lighting could be just as vital. Where locks and other methods of safety can stop a burglary, security lighting that is well-placed can both keep you safe from criminals as well as provide you with safety while you are outside of the home. Here are just a few things that you need to keep in mind when you are having security lighting installed for your home in Northern Kentucky and Greater Cincinnati.

Incorporate Motion Sensors

These motion sensors will be able to detect any motion by using passive infrared technology. This will be able to provide you with an earlier warning system that someone might be close to your home, as well as scare off anyone that gets too close to your home.

Enhance Surveillance

Besides just bringing more light to dark spaces and increasing your home’s visibility, a lighting system outdoors can be a large influence on helping surveillance cameras. There are times when a perfect video is ruined due to an insufficient amount of light in Northern Kentucky and Greater Cincinnati. If you have a surveillance system for your home, ensure that the areas you are monitoring have good lighting during night, therefore you will get clear footage.

Use Smart Timers

The primary purpose to having security lighting is to make it seem like your home is always occupied, specifically when it isn’t. In order to do this, think about placing your outdoor security lighting on timers, therefore it will turn off and on at a specific time. To make your home even more secure, use these timers on a good amount of your interior lights too, to make it seem as if someone is home.

Select Professional Installation

Although you have many choices between DIY kits for you to install, having your system installed professionally by Rose Brothers & Sons Electric can make a huge difference. The initial thing you will see about the professional systems, is the equipment quality is far more advanced. Furthermore, by having your lighting installed professionally, this will ensure that it is connected properly to a reliable source of power. Since the lighting will be useless without a good source of power, it pays to ensure that both the primary and the back-up sources of power are good.

Where Should I Illuminate?

One of the greatest questions that a lot of individuals have is where they should be illuminating. The rule is very simple: illuminate all the shadowed, dark areas that are around your home. This may include any crannies and nooks. With that being said, there are many areas that will benefit from a home lighting system. A garage, for instance, is a very common place to install a set of security lights that are motion sensor activated. These lights, when adjusted properly, will turn on when a person or vehicle enters into your driveway, which illuminates the path. Porches, doorways and other types of entryways are great for installing security lights. Whether you plan on installing more motion sensor lights, or always in one spot, it is very important that you keep these places illuminated during the night.

Home Security Lighting – Beauty, Security and Safety

Lighting up the important places of your home, such as entryways and the doors of your garage may go a long way in improving how secure and safe your home is. On the other hand, doing this might scare away anyone that thinks of breaking into your house. Also, security lighting installed by Rose Brothers & Sons Electric will help light the way when you are trying to enter your own home during the night, to help you avoid falls and trips. It might even help make it simpler finding the keyhole when you are opening your front door.

Top

Lighting Ideas For Your Basement

Many homeowners dream of remodeling their basements, but don’t know where to start. One of the easiest ways to transform your basement into a useable living space is to install great lighting. Depending on your choice of lighting, you may need professional help from an Electrician in Northern Kentucky. Several options are available for basement lighting; the best option depends upon the desired function of the remodeled room.

Overhead Lighting

Homeowners who would like lighting for the entire room may choose overhead lighting. Florescent lighting is typically the best choice because it is brighter, long-lasting, and energy-saving. While this choice may be the best for the long term, most homeowners will not be able to safely install this lighting choice independently. They should contact an Electrician in Northern Kentucky to install overhead lighting in their basement. Families who would like to use the basement regularly as an additional space in their home should consider this option.

Floor Lamps

Another option for lighting in a basement is floor lamps. This selection might work best for homeowners who desire a workstation or movie theater atmosphere in the space. This option is original and stylish. While the floor lamps could all operate independently, a more convenient option for use would be to have them wired to work together on a switch. Homeowners who would like to have floor lamps operate simultaneously will require professional help to achieve this effect. This option creates an ambiance that lends itself to more relaxed, subdued activity.

Hanging Lights

Finally, hanging lights are an option for basement lighting. These lights may also incorporate a decorative scheme. For instance, the color of the fixture may complement the colors of the decorative scheme. Other decorative ideas might include Chinese lanterns or even Christmas lights. Homeowners have a wide array of choices should they choose hanging lights as their ideal option for lighting in their basement. This option may appeal most to those homeowners who have an established decorative theme as a priority and wish to enhance that theme with lighting.

Electricity can be dangerous. A consultation with an Electrician in Northern Kentucky will provide you with advice and guidance when choosing what lighting option is best for your basement. A professional will also be able to complete the install should the option chosen be outside of your skill set. If you decide to complete the project independently, extreme caution should be observed during all levels of the project. If you have any doubt about your ability to complete the project, contact your friends at Rose Brothers & Sons for help. The cost of professional help far outweighs the potential dangers that come when mistakes are made while working with electricity!

Top

Electrical Wiring Problems NKY

Electrical Wiring Gone Wrong: Signs & Symptoms

Many people don’t realize the importance of checking up on your electrical system. You can have small issues that can spiral into major faults if left unnoticed. A large majority of electrical home fires in Northern Kentucky are a result of defective electrical wiring. But how do you combat this if most of your home’s wiring isn’t visible to the eye? How do you know if you’re having electrical wiring problems in Northern Kentucky?

Wiring Red Flags to Watch Out for in your Northern Kentucky Home

Frankly, it’s not possible to catch every wiring defect off the bat if you’re not an experienced electrician. Therefore, here is a list of red flags to look out for. If you see any of the following signs, contact Rose Brothers & Sons straightaway.

Dimming Lights

Overloaded circuits and defective wiring can cause your lights to appear dimmer. If you notice this happening, it’s very possible that your wiring needs to be repaired.

Flickering Lights

This can happen for one of two reasons. First, it could be a wiring issue. Second, your lights could begin to flicker if you electrical system is old or overused.

Burnt Plastic Smell

Many people don’t catch this because it’s often a very light smell. However, if you ever smell the scent of burning plastic around your outlets, contact us right away.

Circuit Breaker Problems

If you’re having trouble with your circuit breaker, it’s likely a wiring problem or a defective electrical machine that your circuit links to.

Buzzing Sound from Electrical Outlets

If you begin to hear a soft buzzing noise, this is often correlated with loose wiring. It could also be an internal problem with your electrical system.

Hot Electrical Outlets

Lastly, if your electrical outlets are warm to the touch, there is often a wiring issue.

If you notice any of these red flags in your Cincinnati home, call your friends at Rose Brothers & Sons straightaway. It could likely turn into a safety issue, as you may need to fix your electrical wiring or get it replaced. If you have any questions about your home’s electrical wiring, feel free to give your favorite Electrical Contractors in NKY a call! (We’re talking about Rose Brothers of course 🙂 A member of the Rose family will gladly answer your question!

859-746-9440

Top
1 18 19 20 Page 20 of 20