All posts by rosebrothers

Electrical Safety Tips for the Holidays

With the holidays right around the corner, it’s time to start thinking about electrical safety. Christmas is wonderful time of year, but it comes at a great cost to your wallet. I am not talking about the food and gift costs that comes with the Holidays. Electricity bills skyrocket with the increase use of electric appliances, lights and special effects.

Plus, let’s not forget Santa’s visit with all the new electronic gadgets on Christmas day. Those news video game consoles and laptops need electricity too. With so many items using electricity, you might be worried about a surge as well as a high bill. The amount of electrical accidents do increase during the holiday season because of the surges and overheating. Many people are not aware of the amount of electricity they use until an accident occurs. Do not be one of those people. Here are ways to use electricity safely during the holiday season.

Do not over use extension leads.

When you are setting up your Christmas lights, do not plug in numerous adapters into one extension lead. They are not equipped to handle a large surge of electricity. Overloading the extension lead can lead to a shock or overheating that may result in a fire. Also, check to make sure your extension lead is not damaged. Check the cord for a split. A damaged cord can be just as dangerous.

Use outdoor extensions for outside

Many people do not realize that there are indoor and outdoor electric extensions. If you are setting up lights outside, you need to use plugs and extensions that are made for the outdoors. These extensions are waterproof, and they are made to survive the severe weather conditions.

Do not overcharge your electronics

If you leave your laptop or mobile phone plugged in when the charge is full, it can lead to overheating. Either unplug the electronics or switch off the plug.

Check your electrical cables regularly

Regularly check your cables for frayed wires or other damage that can be hazardous and life threatening. If you are in doubt that your cables are safe, call a properly qualified electrician to make sure you are not a risk.

If you are in Northern Kentucky, Rose Brothers and Sons Electric is the people to call to make sure your holidays are accident free.

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Emergency Electrician in Northern Kentucky

Looking for an Emergency Electrician in Northern Kentucky? Electricity is one of our most important utilities and when a problem occurs, having a trusted, trained professional in your phone contacts can come in very handy. Emergency electrical problems can and do happen from time to time. Choosing the right, emergency electrician is very important for your safety and pocketbook when an electrical emergency arises.

Happy Electrician

Choosing a Northern Kentucky Emergency Electrician

Choosing the right trained, trusted professional doesn’t have to be as big of a hassle as it sounds. Checking the web and doing a little research will give you many options. But, sometimes an emergency occurs where there isn’t time to source a proper contractor. This often leads to the cheaper option, which in turn can lead to poor workmanship and in the end an unsatisfied customer.

Hiring the right emergency electrician in Northern Kentucky can make the difference of a stormy night with power or a stormy night without power. Since we never know what mother nature is going throw our way, having the right electrical contractor on your side will pay off in the long run.

If you need the best Emergency Electrician in Northern Kentucky, call Rose Brothers & Sons Electric today! Our trained emergency electricians will be able to help with any of your electrical issues. Call us today to get started!

Rose Brothers & Sons Electric, 260 Old Nicholson Rd., Walton, Kentucky 41094, United States - Phone: (859) 746-9440 Email: rosebroselect@gmail.com

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Northern Kentucky Electrician

If you are looking for a reliable, experienced electrician in Northern Kentucky, please don’t hesitate to call Rose Brothers & Sons Electric. We are licensed, bonded and insured professionals that put safety first when handling your electrical needs. We pride ourselves on being meticulous and thorough in our work no matter how big or small the job may be. With the skills, experience and latest equipment, our highly trained electricians can guarantee nothing short of your satisfaction.

We are a locally owned and operated company that has been serving the local Northern Kentucky area for years. If you need an initial consultation, our professional staff will take as much time as needed to answer all of your questions and address any concerns. We work with extreme diligence to finish your project on time and within an agreed budget. Our pledge is our prompt project completion when dealing with your residential electrical needs. Some of the services provided by our Northern Kentucky electricians include commercial lighting, generators, lighting control systems, lighting repair and installation, service upgrades, electrical repairs, wiring and inspections.

Electrical Connection

Let our Northern Kentucky electricians be your choice for servicing all of your electrical projects. Whether you are a new customer or a long-standing client, our goal is to provide the most efficient and affordable comprehensive electric service.

For questions, consultations, estimates or to schedule an appointment, please call us today.

Why choose Rose Brothers’ Northern Kentucky Electricians?

  • We have up to 20 years of experience
  • We are locally owned and operated
  • We are fully insured/bonded
  • We are state licensed
  • We provide prompt project completion
  • Our staff is punctual and professional
  • We offer 24 our emergency services
  • 7 days a week
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Electrical Wiring Contractor

Finding an electrical wiring contractor is generally a hard job. However, without the right set of skills, trying to repair the electrical wiring in your own home often is a hazardous job. Deadly electrical shock, skin burns, and deadly electric shock can be the result of a lack of experience. Badly done wiring can also lead to issues with appliance shorts and electric fires. It is even possible that electrical fires can start fires and ruin your own home.
Typical Electrician Jobs at Home

These tips will help you reduce the chance of making any grave errors and will aid in the success of your project, however there is always the possibility of injuries. Below are a couple electrical wiring projects and some things to consider for each one.

Home Heating / Cooling System Wiring

If there is a problem with your HVAC system, you may think that it is an issue with your thermostat wiring. You may think to take the thermostat off the wall to take a look at the wiring inside the unit, but you should not tinker with thermostat wiring unless you are an electrical wiring contractor. Thermostat wiring is made up mostly of wires that control the unit itself, but within the thermostat there is often extremely dangerous wiring that can cause you grave danger if you are to touch it. You are best off leaving this wiring alone, and instead focusing on other areas to see if you can find an the issue with your home heating and cooling system.

House Fan Electrical Wiring

You never want your house ceiling fan to be powered from a dimmer switch, as the variation in voltage can be harmful to the ceiling fan and may start fire. An electrical wiring contractor can will be able to give you different options for modifying the way your ceiling fan works, and will give you the most options for your project. An electrical wiring contractor may install additional wires so that you may control the ceiling fan with one switch and the light with a second switch.

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Northern Kentucky Electrical Inspection

The Importance of an Electrical Inspection

A Northern Kentucky electrical inspection is an important inspection that will make sure your building has the safety standards needed. Electrical safety inspectors will use what is called the National Electric Code to determine if your building is up to code. This is required by your local government. An electrical permit is needed in order to fix electric issues or to complete electric installations. The majority of times an electric inspector is hired before the government inspection is done. This is done in order to make sure your electric has been properly installed. This inspection will determine that all electrical installation can pass code. This will also trouble shoot any problems before the state inspector does the final inspection.

Northern Kentucky Electrical Inspections

With all new buildings and construction an electrical inspection will be required. This inspection will most likely be required when purchasing a new property or when building an addition to an existing home. An inspection may also be needed when the electricity has been cut off for a long period of time. A licensed electrician in most cases must do the electrical inspections. In some cities they may have different requirements for licensed electricians. They may only accept licenses from that state or county. While other places may accept a national license from other states or counties. There are also some cases where a homeowner may do the work himself and have it inspected by an official. There are three types of inspections that take place during the installation of an electrical system. The first part of the inspection will take a look at the electric wires and electrical system. The second part of the test will see if the wires have been grounded and the service panel has been installed properly. The third part of the inspection will cover the breakers and to see if the electric works correctly. Before purchasing a new home it is a good idea to have the electricity inspected. This will determine if the home is up to code with the National Electrical Code system. When purchasing a new home it should be determined if that home can handle the amount of electricity that is needed and would also be able to handle an addition. This will save you money in the long run.

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Rose Brothers & Sons Electric, 260 Old Nicholson Rd., Walton, Kentucky 41094, United States - Phone: (859) 746-9440 Email: rosebroselect@gmail.com
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Electrical Wiring Tips To Get You Started

Electrical wiring is something that strikes fear in the minds of some but is considered a piece of cake by others. If you are proficient when it comes to electrical items then you will know what goes where. A wiring connection is required for all cords, circuits, electrical panels and other types of electrical devices. If you have anything that is electrical in nature in your residence (and let’s face it who doesn’t in this day and age?) then you need to get acquainted with electrical wiring. Even if you just learn the basics and call in a professional for the rest then at least you will have a general knowledge that will serve you well over time.

If you own a home then there will be times when wiring issues will occur and you will have to do something about them. Wiring can be easy once you get the hang of it but first you have to learn what to do, how to do it and what tools you require to get the job done correctly. That is the goal after all- to make sure that the work gets done in the proper manner.

One type of electrical wiring that is common in many homes is appliance wiring. All appliances such as your oven, refrigerator, washer and dryer have connections. This is also the case for your smaller appliances such as your microwave oven, your toaster, your blender and your kettle. These appliances and others throughout your home all have outlets and breakers of different sizes. You need to have someone who is experienced in these areas to teach you how to connect the cord for your range or how to install the appliance you have always wanted to have – a dishwasher!

Some electrical wiring connections are important and necessary while others are not. You may be given a choice when it comes to what outlets or switches to use but in other cases there is only one choice that is the right one. When in doubt you can always get in touch with the manufacturer to ask questions or you can place a call to a professional who does wiring as a profession. Seeking out help when it comes to your wiring projects can make life so much easier!

You want the electricity flow in your home to work smoothly and to have no problems whatsoever. To make this a reality you need to make sure that all of the electrical components are connected to the right outlets. Not doing so could lead to a break in your electricity. Connecting the wrong items could also potentially cause you to be injured. You might want to learn how to wire an electrical meter and how to do the appropriate wiring for electrical panels.

Speaking of electrical wiring, the safety and security of yourself and of everyone in your household is extremely important. It is imperative for you to know what voltage accompanies each outlet. This is information that should be provided with an appliance when you purchase it. For instance some appliances have a voltage of 240 while others have 120 volts. This is something that you must pay close attention to.

About the Author

If you are in need of electrical wiring San Jose CA has a service that can provide a top-notch job for your home or business. For more information about this service, visit: http://www.smallmanconstruction.com/

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Electrical Safety Tips for Children

Electrical Safety Tips for Children

Electrical safety tips

We teach our children how to be safe in many areas of life. Don’t talk to strangers. Look both ways before you cross the street. Don’t touch the stove when it’s hot. However, we often leave out a very important aspect of outdoor safety; steering clear of electrical hazards. Here are some great tips regarding electricity and keeping your children safe:

Stay clear of electrical wires and outlets

All electrical wires should be kept out of reach and sight of children and teaching them the difference between open and closed outlets is essential. A good indicator to help them learn to avoid is the volt sign that is usually located on the outlet.

Teach your children the danger signs

Teaching them the more important or dangerous signs is a very good idea so they are on alert for these at all terms. Not only will your child be safer but if they’re with other children they can let them know as well.

Prohibit climbing transmission towers or fences near substations

Making sure your child isn’t going to play around any potentially hazardous areas such as these is extremely important. Providing a tree or public playground that they can use instead is advisable.

Do not throw anything at utility poles or outdoor wiring

During bad weather, throwing objects near utility poles can sometimes cause lightning or an electrical shock. Not only this but if your child happens to fly a kite at all, it could potentially create an electrical circuit between wires and your child so make sure they do this far away from hazardous areas.

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Electrical Glossary

Electrical Glossary

A

A-Line Lamp: An indoor lamp regularly used in residential homes.

Accent Lighting: Bright, specifically placed lighting used to accent certain parts of residential homes.

Alternating Current (AC): A current of electricity that changes direction according to frequency.

Alternator: A generator that producing a constant alternating electrical current.

Ambient Lighting: General lighting used in resident and commercial areas.

American Wire Gauge (AWG): A standard measurement system to rate the size of electrical wire.

Ampacity: Maximum amount of current that a conductor can carry continuously.

Ampere: An electrical current that is created when one ohm is applied to one volt.

Analog: The standard unit of measure assessing physical restrictions.

Arc Tube: A clear, glass tube made of quartz that houses an arc stream.

 

B

Ballast: A limited electrical current device that works to run fluorescent lighting.

Ballast Cycling: When fluorescent lighting cycles on and off to avoid overheating.

Battery: A unit that houses two or more cells that connect to create an electrical current.

Blower Doors: A device used to send a wind current though residential homes and make leaks around doors, windows and other areas become apparent.

Branch Circuit: Circuits that feed devices, appliances and other electrical needs in a residence.

Brownout: A decrease in available power when the generation of electricity cannot keep up with demand.

BTU (British Thermal Unit): Standard unit for measuring heat quantities.

 

C

Cable Lighting System: A hanging track wiring system of low voltage spot lighting.

Candlepower/Candela: Unit of measure for light intensity.

Capacitor: Electronic component that holds an electrical charge.

Cathode: An electrode that emits electrons out of a device.

Cell: The part of a battery that converts chemical energy into a working electrical current.

Circuit Breaker: A device designed to control electrical currents without ruining the wiring.

Circuit Extensions: An extension to a circuit that provides an additional power source.

Code Corrections: A citation issued to correct wiring that does not meet required safety regulations.

Colored Glass Filter: Color inserted directly into glass during the forming process, instead of coated after the glass has cooled.

Color Temperature: Range of measurement from warm colors to cool colors, used to measure the color appearance of a light source.

Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL): Small, tube shaped fluorescent lighting with a high color illumination.

Constant Wattage (CW) Ballast: Occurs when a primary and secondary coil is isolated in an HID ballast.

Continuous Load: The maximum electrical load current for a whoy is excepted to run a constant 3+ hours.

Contrast: The range of illumination from light and dark.

Controller: The regulator of electricity between the origin of power and the device it is running.

Cornice Lighting: Bar-shaped fixtures that cover ceiling lighting.

Cover Lighting: a ceiling mounted light used to distribute light across an area.

Current: The flow of electricity.

Cut-off Angle: the angle at which the light from a lamp is not visible.

 

D

Daylight Compensation: A dimming lighting system that dims at the presence of natural daylight.

Diffuse: Disillusion of light so that it’s softened around an area.

Dimmer: Used to vary the light distributed by a lamp.

Diode: Device used to allow electricity to flow in one direction.

Direct Current (DC): Power rating that allows the current to flow in one direction.

Downlight: Light mounted in a ceiling that is used to direct light downwards.

 

E

Efficacy: Term used to measure light produced vs. energy consumption.

Electroluminescent: A new technology used to provide long lamp life in which consumes very little energy.

Electric Resistance Heating: A heating system the creates heat by passing an electrical current through a conductor.

EMI (Electromagnetic Inference): Interference caused by an electronic component that hinders the operation of electrical equipment.

Emergency Lighting: Lighting that illuminates during a power outage or other emergency.

Energy: A unit of measure for mechanical work, measured in kilo-watt hours.

Energy Efficiency Ration (EER): A ratio comparing the rate at which an air conditioner cools to the total wattage of electrical input.

Energy-Saving Ballast: A efficiently performing magnetic ballast.

 

F

Fault: A hiccup in an electrical system causing a short circuit.

Filament: The wire within a light bulb that illuminates when electricity is ran through it.

Flexible Track Lighting System: A lighting system on a track that has the ability to be adjusted.

Fluorescent Lamps: Lights that produce light when electricity is passed through gas rather than a wire.

Foot-Candle: A unit of measurement used to measure the amount of light reaching an object.

Four-Way Switch: Three light switches all wired to control a single lighting system.

Frequency: Rate in which a current changes it’s direction.

 

G

Generator: Rotating copper wheel that generates electricity.

Glare: An effect caused by direct light entering the eye.

Grid: A network of wires used to distribute electricity.

Ground: Used to direct electricity to a safe location.

 

H

Halogen Lamp: A bulb that contains halogen gases to slow the evaporation of the filament.

Hard Wired: A permanent connection to an electrical source.

Hertz: Measurement of frequency.

HID Lamp: High Intensity lamps with an extensive lifespan.

High Bay: Ceiling lighting where the ceiling exceeds a height of 20 feet.

High Output (HO): A lighting system designed to function with higher currents to put out more light.

High-Tech Troubleshooting: A testing system to identify and wiring system issues or failures.

Horsepower: A unit of power that is equivalent to 746 watts.

Hot Restart/Hot Restrike: The action of a HID light source automatically restarting following a loss in power.

 

I

Illuminance (Light Level): The amount of light in a particular room or on an object or surface.

Impulse: A temporary electrical current surge.

Incandescent Light Bulbs: Light bulbs specially made to run electricity through a thin layer.

Infared Cameras: Cameras that pick up on any heat source.

Infared Radiation: An invisible radiation that has extended wavelengths.

Instant Start: Fluorescent lamps that function without requiring preheating.

Insulation: Materials used to resist electrical currents.

Inverter: A device that converts an direct electrical current into an alternative one.

Ion: A molecule or atom that is either positively or negatively charged.

J

Joule: Unit of measure for potential electrical current equal to 1,000 volts.

 

K

Kilovolt (kV): A unit of electrical current equal to 1,000 volts.

Kilowatt (kW): Power delivered in a load.

Kilowatt-hour: Measurement comparison for a unit to energy to one kilowatt for one hour.

L

Layers: The layers of illumination created by multiple light sources.

LED: An energy-efficient light that has an extremely extensive lifespan.

Light Loss Factor (LLF): An allowance that lets lighting systems in less than ideal conditions.

Light Trespass/Spill Light: The lighting of an unintended area.

Life Cycle Cost: The overall cost of buy and operating a total system over the total lifespan.

Limit Switch: A switch that causes an alteration to an electrical current.

Liquid-Filled Transformer: A liquid that cools and insulates a submerged transformer.

Live Parts: Components of electrical wiring that are exposed and deemed dangerous.

Load: The power supplied by an electrical device.

Loadbreak: The successful avoidance of disengaging a load with damaging it’s components.

Load Center: The power center that distributes power to an entire structure.

Load Curve: Electronic demand vs. Time.

Load Factor: A unit of measure for an electrical system’s capacity and efficiency.

Load Switching: Taking one load and transferring it from one source to another.

Louver: A opaque screen created to minimize glare.

Low Voltage: A wiring system that provides electricity to a device under 100 volts.

Lumen: Unit of measure that indicates the amount of light emitted from a light source.

Luminaire: A light system or single fixture.

 

M

Mercury Vapor Lamp: A lamp in which light is produced from the radiation of mercury vapor.

Metal Enclosed/Metalclad: A metal casing that surrounds a device.

Metal Halide: A lamp in which light is produced by the radiation of metal halide.

Motors: The device that moves or runs a system.

 

N

National Electrical Code: The code of requirements for proper electrical practices and procedures.

Neodymium: A metal used to create a purple-hued glass for certain light bulbs, goggles, filters and lenses.

 

O

Occupancy Sensor: An motion sensor light switch system.

Ohm: Unit of measure to properly measure resistance.

Opaque: A material that does not allow light to pass through at all.

Outlet: A current that is borrowed to supply electricity to somewhere outside of the orginally intended power grid.

Overload: An excessive amount of stress on a particular circuit.

Overvoltage: A voltage that is above the recommend capacity.

 

P

PAR Lamp: An aluminium reflector lamp.

Pendant: A glare-deflecting shade for ceiling-mounted lamps.

Phase: An AC circuit classification.

Photocell: Device that senses light and controls the lighting system accordingly.

Power: The unit of measure for energy transferred.

Power Outlet: A device intended to distribute power temporarily to other equipment.

Preheat: The heating up of a fluorescent lamp before the use of high voltage.

Puncture: A discharge that temporarily disrupts a solid dielectric.

 

R

Radio Frequency Inference (RFI): The disruption of a radio frequency band by another frequency band nearby.

Rapid Start: A fluorescent lighting system that goes to high voltage quickly without warming up first.

Rated Life: Half the expected lifespan of a particular kind of lamp.

Reactive Power: The voltage and current taken up by reactive loads.

Real (Active) Power: The measurment in watts or kilowatts measuring the rate at which energy is transferred.

Receptacles: Power sources within a structure.

Reflector/Refractor: A light fixture’s part that redirects a light’s path.

Regulation: The ability a ballast has to uphold fluctuations in voltage.

Relay: A device used to turn a load on or off during electrical current changes.

Resistor: Any limitation on a current’s flow.

Retrofit: Upgrading a feature based on previous installations.

 

S

Sconce: Lighting fixtures that attached to the wall.

Semi-spectacular: Characteristics of a material that creates light reflection.

Service: Materials used to deliver electric energy from a utility into a wiring system.

Series Gap: Areas in the internal system in which voltage is suppose to appear.

Series/Multiple: Two coils wound together to create a series of operating systems.

Service Cable: Cables used to transfer conductors.

Spacing Criterion: The maximum spacing requirement for interior lighting systems for appropriate light.

Specular: A surface that is polished or mirror.

Starter: A device that is used to start a fluorescent lamp.

Stroboscopic Effect: An effect that is created when machinery is rotating, but appears to be standing still.

Switchboard: An assembly of panels that are mounted with protective devices.

Switches: A interruption to a circuit that controls the flow of electricity.

Symmetric: The natural flow of a electrical current.

Systems Capacity: The maximum allowance of electricity allowed for one system.

 

T

Tap: Connections made from an outside wiring system.

Tandem Wiring: A ballast shared by two or more luminaries for heightened efficiency.

Task Lighting: Lighting that is installed in particular areas where tasks are performed.

Three-Way Switch: A switch allowing two switches to control a single lighting system.

Track and Accent Lighting: Lighting used to highlight certain areas or walls in residential homes and businesses.

Transfer Switch: A device that can connect to different sources.

Transformer: A device that lets electromagnetic energy transfer from one circuit to another.

Transient: A amplitude that is overlaid onto normal voltage.

Translucent: Any material that allows light to pass directly through with a small amount of distortion.

Transparent: Any material that allows light to pass directly through with little or no distortion.

Troffer: A recessed light fixture that is built in the ceiling.

Turn Ratio: The turn count of a high voltage winding vs. low voltage winding.

 

U

UL (Underwriters Laboratories Inc.): A non-profit safety organization.

Uninterruptible Power Supply: A device that constantly puts out a current, even with interruption.

Uplight: Light that is directed at or about 90 degress.

UV Radiation: Invisible light rays

 

V

Vandal-resistant: Fixtures that resist breaking or tampering

Vapor-Tight Luminaire: A lighting fixture that is protected against water vapor and gas

VCP (Visual Comfort Probability): A system used to rate the output of direct glare.

Very High Output (VHO): A fluorescent lamp that operates at a high current and thus puts off more light.

Volt: An flow of electricity that carries one ampere.

Voltage Drop: A drop in voltage due to an electrical resistance or failure.

 

W

Wall Grazing: Light and shadow effects on a surface.

Wall Washing: A lighting method that produces a constant level of light to reduce surface texture.

Watt: A unit of electricity that is equal to one ampere.

Wiring: The system of wires that distributes electricity throughout the entirety of a building.

Whole-House Fan: A fan that runs ventilation for an entire building.

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Outdoor Outlets and Faucets

Outdoor Outlets & Faucets 101

Outdoor electrical outlets have now become a customary element in any house. Same applies for the outdoor faucet too. Certain things such as safety features are often neglected and not considered in standard outlets. These features do not arise in homeowner’s mind. So, if you wish to avert any disaster in your home, it is very important to be informed regarding dangers that can arise and also how ideal outdoor outlets and faucets can play an important role here. Moreover, you must know what sort of precautions you need to take to safeguard yourself from personal damage and home dent before any disaster strikes.

Outdoor Electrical Outlets—An Intro

The introduction of GFCI outlet or ground fault circuit interrupter is the only reason why outdoor outlets are secure. GFCI outlet splits the electric current whilst electricity seeps into ground (in most cases, electricity runs through you). Whenever while working around hot tubs, pools & puddles or in wet atmosphere outside, you might have often experienced mild electric shocks from ground but you never experience this while being served well at your neighborhood barbeque. And the only difference here is installation of GFCI outlet. Call the cavalry and get the work done quickly in case there is no GFCI unit installed for all outdoor electrical outlets.

Other Safety Precautions

Apart from ensuring whether GFCI units are installed in all the outdoor electrical outlets, you must also buy some good covers which protect the outlet units from water contact, even though power tools as well as appliances are plugged up. Also, you need to refrain from working outdoors with all the electrically powered instruments and equipments when the atmosphere is wet outside. By simply adhering to these advices you can drastically lower the chances of inflicting any electrical related damage.

Tips for Outdoor Faucet

Outdoor faucet may not cause much damage to you but can greatly damage your home. Rapid changes in the temperature causes the older faucets to freeze, thereby bursting the pipes which in turn can create havoc in the basement as well as in crawlspace. To prevent this damage, you need to install outdoor faucets that are frost proof. Faucets like these prevent your pipes from bursting during various fronts. Firstly, majority of such faucets have built in anti-siphon sill cock which avoids freezing. They get attached to the home’s plumbing well inside the structure, which helps in eliminating any chance that iced water would expand at any joints, where usually damages in pipe occurs.

Install Outdoor Electrical Outlets

Other Tips

The best way to safeguard your home is to install a frost proof faucet; however certain common sense assessment will assist you to prevent any major plumbing disaster. If there is a predication of hard frost in your area then unhook all the hoses before freezing strikes. Hoses stop the water from draining completely due to which water in pipes to do its damaging work. Fix and shut all the faucets tightly before cold wave sets in for the similar reason.

 

 

Contact an Expert

GFCI units & frost proof faucets work best only when installed properly. If they are incorrectly set, it will only provide you with a false sense of safety and it can be also bigger safety risk to individuals thinking that they and your house are protected. Call and speak to an expert certified electrician or plumber to ensure whether your GFCI’s as well as frost proof faucets are installed properly. These measures will not allow you to re-think twice concerning your protection or the integrity of your house.

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Voltage Dips and Electrical Surges

Voltage Dips and Electrical Surges

Voltage dips occur when many homes in an area draw power at the same time, such as high noon when everybody runs their air conditioning units on high. Flickering lights can be a sign that you’re experiencing a dip in voltage. although voltage dips aren’t too much to be concerned about, it can be an inconvenience, especially when it cuts off the power to your house.

Voltage Surges:

The most severe type of power-interference is called the voltage surge. These are able to start outside or inside the house, and this temporary surge in voltage can cause extreme damage to your personal electronic components such as entertainment centers, computers, television sets, training gear, stereo systems, mobile devices, and more. Call an electrician in Northern Kentucky if you’re experiencing more surges than usual.

The Solution: Surge Protection.

There are 2 different types of surge protectors currently available . The surge suppressor and the surge arrestor. As the name suggests, the surge arrestor is installed near or on the service panel to the house and offers protection from power surges up to 20,000 volts. This is equivalent to a strike of lightning.

Surge Suppressor:

Surge Suppressors were designed to protect common household appliances and electronic devices from excessive surges in voltage. These types of surges happen frequently in houses throughout the course of any given day. Many factors contribute to the this. The city switches power from one part of the grid to another to respond to supply and demand, and energy is constantly being diverted in the home from voltage left over from electric devices being turned on and off.

Over time, these power surges can have a negative effect on the wiring insulation. This causes the devices to break down or stop working altogether. To protect your expensive electronic gadgets and devices, plug them into a surge protector so they don’t get fried by a voltage surge.

Surge Arrestors:

To obtain the ultimate in protection, you can purchase a surge arrestor, which can protects against voltage surges to 20,000 volts. Surge arrestors kick in when suppressors leave off, and they were designed to protect the parts of the home such as the outlets, switches, breaker box, and more. High-quality suppressors protect to 330 volts, and arrestors begin at 600 volts and protect to 20,000.

Hiring a Professional Electrician in NKY:

Surge arrestors that were designed for the home should only be installed by a licensed professional. Today, there are a multitude of arrestor makes and models available. There are numerous factors to consider when determining the correct surge arrestor to install. Be sure to speak to a professional about choosing the correct model for your home.

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